Homeowners constructing second homes were looking for ways to lower constructions costs. Rafter tails that are not boxed in are called “exposed”.Įxposing the roof’s rafter tails was a common practice at the turn of the century, but only for vacation homes and especially for beach houses. Most rafter tails are boxed in by a soffit, so that they are not visible to the eye. The rafter tail is the cut end of the rafter that extends to the edge of the roof. A rafter usually follows the angle of the roof, and may be a part of a roof truss.” The rafter is typically a 2” x 10” or a 2” x 12”. The folks at Sound Home Resource Center (a rafter as “The framing member which directly supports the roof sheathing. To make sure we’re all on the same page, we’d best define the term rafter. The first of these elements is the exposed rafter tail. In the first of an ongoing series titled “Coastal Design Elements” we’d like to introduce you to the key design components that designers and architects use to give their designs a coastal look and feel. As you search for a coastal or beach house design that fits your lifestyle, you’ll begin to notice that some designs look more “coastal” than others. For the cost of some ripped 3/8" plywood, it seemed like a simple and worthwhile upgrade to wall design.Choosing a design for your coastal property presents the opportunity to explore home styles that are a bit more unique than the designs found in most subdivisions. per lineal foot.Īdditionally, I included a rain screen behind my fiber-cement cladding. I did, however, come across a product from Cor-A-Vent that sits atop my blocking, beneath the 1圆 T&G, that provides 10 sq. I could not get a large enough NFVA using round vents in the blocking between the rafters, which was my desired design. I don't know how you plan on venting the "non"-soffit space, but that turned out to be a nettlesome detail for me. I can rummage around and post it here tonight when I get home, if you'd like.Ī couple of suggestions. I am in Zone 6, and have designed essentially the same wall and roof structure that you and Armondo describe. I, too, am building exposed rafter tail structure(s) and can supply you with my SketchUp detail that is presently under review at the zoning and permitting office. In any case, I’d like to see it.Īgree with Armondo - truss company will tell you spacing, and I expect it will be standard 24" despite the overhang size. This may be such a simple detail that the GBA editors didn’t deem it worthy of inclusion, but to me it’s not easy. Is there a construction detail available at GBA for the Roof/Wall connection that I describe? (Fiber-Cement Siding Over Rigid Foam, w/ furring strips, plus Raised Heel Truss, exposed rafter ends) I’ve just spent a very tedious time going through CAD details on the site, and all I can find are drawings that show an enclosed soffit with vents. I’m also assuming that the trusses will have to be 16″ o.c. We want a big overhang (42″) on the “rafter” tails, which I assume will mean at least a 2×6 on the top chord of the trusses. ![]() The walls will be 2×6 (Roxul R-23 mineral wool) with 2″ of foam (or Roxul board) and vented rainscreen under 1/2″ Nichiha fiber cement siding. There’ll be a raised heel truss, 16″ heel to get R-49 in the attic–which will be vented. I’m assuming a simple gable roof, shallow 3/12 pitch, California Bungalow style, with the rafter tails showing (no closed soffit). I have some elementary (for you) questions that are not elementary to me.įirst, the basics: we’re going to be building a house in Oregon, Marine Zone 4c.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |